Apricot Mustard,  by Amy Pennington

Excerpted from Urban Pantry, published by Skipstone

Apricot Mustard

I strive for diversity in my pantry and with the goods that I put up each year.  Sticking to the same recipe year after year gets a bit exhausting and I grow tired of canning with the same recipes each season.  In my quest to try something new, I decided to try a fruit mustard.  Fruit mustards are not uncommon.  Italians cook up fruit and add mustard to the syrup, calling it mostarda – a spicy fruity combination served alongside meat.  For this recipe, I make a pot of apricot jam, soak mustard seeds in apple cider vinegar and cook them together into a thick condiment.  It has a similarity to honey-mustard, but the apricot is more pronounced and the mustard is more spicy than sweet.

Makes about 5 half-pints

1.5 pounds apricots, pitted

1 lemon, zest grated, juiced, seeds & membranes reserved

2.25 cups sugar

.50 cup water

.25 cup brown mustard seeds

.25 cup yellow mustard seeds

1 cup apple cider vinegar

Place lemon seeds in small muslin bag and tie. In large stock pot, combine apricots, sugar, water and lemon juice, juiced halves, seed bag and zest. Over medium heat, bring to simmer.  Skim any foam from the surface as it cooks.  Cook until fruit is soft and sugar is dissolved, about 20 minutes.  Remove from heat, and leaving fruit in pot, cover and hold in the refrigerator at least 6 hours, or overnight.

While apricots are cooking, smash mustard seeds.  Working in small batches, grind seeds in a mortar and pestle until most of them are broken and slightly ground.  You can also use a spice grinder, but be sure to grind only to a coarse meal.  Cover with apple cider vinegar and set aside, at least 6 hours, or overnight.

Put small plate in the freezer.  (You will use this later to check the set.) When fruit has macerated, return it to medium heat on the stove top and cook down until thickened and amber in color, 30 minutes.  Add mustard seeds and vinegar.  Stir to combine.  Scoop out about a cup of the jam and puree in a blender, on high speed, until creamy and smooth, about 5 minutes.  Add back to jam-pot and cook until thick and mustard is set, another 30 minutes, skimming foam as necessary.  Remove lemon halves, pressing out any mustard or remaining juice/pulp, and compost.  To test set, spoon a small amount on plate kept in the freezer.  Push the mustard with your fingertip. Mustard should wrinkle indicating ‘set’.  If loose, return to heat and cook another 10 minutes, checking set until desired consistency is reached.

Prepare jars for canning. You will need to sterilize the empty jars for this recipe. Add mustard to jars, and gently tap bottom of jar on counter to release any air bubbles.  Using damp clean towel, wipe rims of jars and place on lids and rings. Process in a water bath for 5 minutes, using half-pint or pint jars. (Add one minute to processing time for 1,000 feet of altitude.) 

Remove jars with tongs and let cool on the counter.  When mustard is cool, check for proper seals, remove metal rings and label with date and contents.  Store in a cool dark cupboard until ready to use, for up to one year.

PANTRY NOTE:  Apricot Mustard is a well-matched condiment for cured meats and cheese.  Make a platter for a little snack or pre-dinner nibble for guests.  This mustard can also be used as a glaze on roasted meats.  Brush mustard on the meat in the last 10 minutes of cooking.  Once opened, store in the fridge.  Will keep for many months.

Hibiscus Peaches, by Amy Pennington

Excerpted from Urban Pantry, published by Skipstone

HIBISCUS PEACHES

I started infusing fruits with various herbs and spices as a way to both lend a soft flavor, but also as a way to maintain fruit color and integrity.  Hibiscus is a tropical flower that is available dried in most bulk sections of health food stores.  In Mexico, people drink Agua di Jamaica, a tart pink refreshing drink, and hibiscus is a fair typical ingredient in tropical tea blends.  I use hibiscus with peaches, both for its tart finish and pink-hue.  It keeps the peaches from turning ‘dingy’ in the jar and the left over canning liquid makes a stunning syrup when boiled down.

Makes about 5 pints

5 pounds peaches

For Syrup:

6 and a half cups water

1 cup sugar

3 tablespoons dried hibiscus

2 lemons, sliced in half

Prepare jars for canning.  Bring sugar, water and hibiscus to a boil over high heat.  Reduce heat to medium-low and keep at a low simmer until ready to use the syrup.

Bring large pot of water to a boil.  Make ice bath by filling a large bowl with cold water and several ice cubes.  Lay out sheet pan next to the ice water bath.  Working in quick succession, dunk peaches into boiling water for 30 seconds to one minute.  Scoop up with a slotted spoon and immediately drop into ice bath, to stop cooking.  Once cool, move peaches over to sheet pan.  Continue in this fashion until all peaches are processed, replenishing ice cubes as needed.

Empty ice bath bowl, and refill with cold water and add lemon halves, first squeezing out the juice.  Working quickly, one peach at a time, cut peach in half.  With paring knife, peel skin from the halves (skin should come off easily) and remove pits. Place immediately into acidulated water, so peaches don’t brown from air exposure.  Work in this way until all your peaches are peeled.

Drain peaches from acidulated water and add to hibiscus syrup, cooking for five minutes.  Do not cook peaches any longer than five minutes, or they will turn mushy and loose their shape.  Pack jars.  Add peach halves until they reach the first ring on the top of the jar, being mindful not to press down on them. On a folded over dish towel (for padding), strongly tap the bottom of the jar to the counter, to help pack down peaches.  Fill jar once more, leaving half an inch of head space. 

When jars are full, using a ladle or a liquid measuring cup for ease, pour hot syrup over peaches, leaving half inch head space.  Gently tap bottom of jar on counter to release any air bubbles.  Wipe rims of jars, using damp clean towel and place on lids and rings.  Process in a water bath for 20 minutes if using pint jars, 25 minutes if using quart jars.  (Add five minutes to processing time for every 3,000 feet in altitude over 1,000 feet.) 

While peaches are in water bath, turn any remaining peach liquid to high and reduce until thick, like syrup.  Pour this syrup into small 4-ounce canning jars and process in water bath, as you would for the peaches.

Remove jars with tongs and let cool on the counter.  When peaches are cool, check for proper seals, remove metal rings and label with date and contents.  Store in a cool dark cupboard until ready to use, for up to one year.

PANTRY NOTE:  You will need two pints (or 1 quart) of peaches to fill one pie.  Once open, peaches will keep in the fridge for several months, but may discolor so it’s best to use them within 2 weeks.  Any leftover peach hibiscus syrup can be added to batidos or used over pancakes, or ice cream.  Fruit syrups make lovely hostess gifts, as well.

Water Bath Canning 101

 by Amy Pennington - Excerpted from Urban Pantry, published by Skipstone

CLEANING JARS - Wash your jars and lids in hot soapy water and dry them completely on a rack or with a clean dishtowel.

JAR PREP - Glass jars and lids do not need to be sterilized before use if your food stuffs will be processed more than ten minutes in a boiling water bath or pressure canner.  If jar processing time is ten minutes or less, jars must be sterilized prior to filling.  Do this by placing jars in canning pot, filling with water, and bringing water to simmer.  Hold jars in water until ready to use.  Conversely, I always hold just-washed jars in a 225 degree oven until ready to use.  This is not recommended by the USDA, but I’m still alive to give you the option.

HEATING THE CANNING POT - Fill your canning pot or a large stock pot three quarters full of water and heat to a low boil.  Hold the liquid on very low boil until ready to use.

FILLING THE JARS – Proper headspace (the amount of space between the surface of the canned good and the lid of the jar) is necessary for proper sealing.  Fill jars only to the bottom ring on the neck of the canning jar.  Once fill, wipe rim of jars with clean, damp dishtowel.  Place flat lid squarely on top and add metal ring to secure.  Do not tighten metal ring all the way, but just to hold the lid in place while still allowing air to be forced from the jar during the water bath.

FILLING THE CANNING POT - If using a canning pot, place prepared jars of food onto the rack in the canner.  Do not stack, as you need to allow for circulation of water for proper sealing.  Lower jars into canning pot, making certain the water covers the lid by one inch or more.  Cover the pot and return to a boil.  Processing times begin once the canning pot water is brought back up to a boil.  This can take as much as fifteen minutes, so be sure to keep an eye on your pot and a timer nearby.  If using a large stock pot (best only in small batch preserving), line the bottom of the pot with a dish town and stack jars on top.  This helps them from clanging around on the bottom or tumbling over on to their sides. This form of canning is not universally recommended, or endorsed by the USDA.  I have seen plenty of farmers and European country-folk use this old school technique, and I’ve adapted their laissez faire ways.  AND I’m still alive to give you the option.

REMOVING SEALED JARS - Using a jar lifter, or a set of kitchen tongs, remove jars from the canner when the processing time has elapsed.  (Remember, processing times begin once the canning pot water is brought back up to a boil.)   Set jars aside on a folded towel to cool.  Make sure you do not press on the tops and create an artificial seal. 

JARS ARE READY WHEN - You will hear the sound of can tops popping shortly – a sign that a secure seal has been made.  Once jars are cool, check the seal by removing the outer ring and lifting the jar by holding only the lid. If it stays intact, you have successfully canned your food.  If the seal is loose or broken, you may reprocess in the water bath within 24 hours.  (Be sure to replace the lid, and check jar rim for cracks or knicks and replace if necessary.)  Conversely, you can refrigerate the jar immediately and use within three weeks. 

LABELING AND STORAGE – Once cool, label all jars with date and contents.  Successfully sealed jars should be stored in a cool dark place, such as a cupboard. Officially, canned goods keep for up to a year.